A portrait of eight couples as they wake up. He gets up, goes to her side, puts her clothes on and leaves home. Simple gestures that unhinge established iconographies. It is the man who puts on men’s clothes that in fact belong to his lover.Umit Benan is the narrator. Stories and personal experiences are the motor that drives his work: real moments of real life. This time, though, he goes further, to the point of showing his own most intimate and private side, which is also the most tender. He calls the collection I once loved a woman who loves menswear and is inspired by a love story which now belongs to the past. He does not get distracted by details however: he sublimates his experience to give it to a wider audience; he translates it into a gesture, an attitude. Fascinated by certain female figures who are capable of expressing both strength and delicacy wearing menswear, he deconstructs the image of the inflexible man without tarnishing his wardrobe. A different sensitivity insinuates itself between the folds. Deconstruction becomes a way of being in a collection constructed with meticulous attention. The result is a celebration of individuality and independence.The silhouette is affirmative. It is the trousers that define it: classic, full, with a high waist and deep darts. They are worn with double-breasted jackets that mark the body, Sahara jackets with a precise cut and body-conscious biker jackets. The pieces make up a strongly iconic wardrobe: there is everything, from the silk trench coat to bermudas, from the dinner jacket to the three-piece suit, from the silk turtleneck to the denim jacket to jeans; the accessories are also classic and timeless. The details, however, upset the balance: low lapels with a bold width, a satin square on a mohair tuxedo jacket and triple patch pockets. Stripes and checks create graphics that break up the severe aplomb of the line. In a game of contradictions, both the respect of codes and their negation can be seen. A new classicism emerges: subtly out of register, appropriate and firm and delicate together.The materials are compact, dry and rich to the touch: linen, mohair, cotton, silk, denim and leather. The colour palette is classic, with deliberate colour contrasts: shades of blue, brick, peach and optical white are modulated with a pictorial taste.The Umit Benan man loves women, to the extent of extracting their sensitivity to be masculine in a new way.