Ever the herald of bold, assertive masculinity, Umit Benan keeps drawing, as if he was a cartographer, an expansive and expanding map of ways of being a male. He does so as a storyteller, defining an evolving roster of singular characters. For his new collection, entitled Tokyo Diaries, Umit Benan goes east, landing in Japan. As the word diary suggests, the experience is a real, not an imagined one. Benan's extensive stays in the land of the rising sun gave unexpected nuances to his gaze. The tourist's cliches left way to a different consciousness. Benan went looking for strong individuals in the depth of the city, in fact: active men who maybe lead a second life - a perilous one; mystery men of athletic prowess. He found them in dark corners, going out of karate school to disappear into the night. Mixing  karate gear with tailored outerwear, they looked fierce, in that street-savvy kind of way that only comes from spontaneity. It's this spontaneous mix that Unit Benan is after in his new collection. Tailored coats of soft yet sleek precision are the starting point. They are worn over kimonos, jacquard yukatas and karate trousers. The quilting of karate gear recurs as a defining detail, while red is the pervasive color. Hoodies worn throughout bring the mix on gritty metropolitan territory. Part karate kid, part outlaw, the collection draws another trademark Umit Benan figure: potently masculine, indulgently humorous. Waist cinched in karate belt, maybe wearing a skirt, he heads to a club and enjoys nyotaimori.